Monday, June 15, 2015

The Castle on the Hill -- Shkodër

            Albania is a country rich with history. It was once composed of divided tribes who were oppressed by the Ottoman Empire. When united under one national hero, Skanderbeg, the Albanian tribes were able to defend themselves from the Ottoman Empire. After his death, however, there was no one fit to lead the Albanian tribes and the Ottomans entered and conquered Albania. One of the most decisive battles in this conquest took place at Rozafa Castle in Shkodër where thousands of besieged Albanians were vanquished.
            The castle was held by the Muslims for 500 years while Albania was under the rule of the Ottoman Empire. Yet, in 1912, the Balkan League which incorporated Serbia, Montenegro, Greece, and Bulgaria, combined forces and declared war against the Ottomans. That year, at the same castle where the Ottomans once established their kingdom in the Balkans, the Balkan League was able to reclaim the land and evict the Ottomans. Rozafa Castle was initially in the hands of the Serbian people, and one year later was given to Albania when their independence was officially declared.
I stand at the ready, Albanian banner in hand!
            Today we visited this major historic landmark for the Albanian people. Overwhelmed by its antiquity and yet timelessness, it is difficult to describe my feelings while within the walls of this magnificent fortress. It stands high on a hill near the conjoining of three rivers, and is an easily defensible position; it's clear why this citadel was contested for with such vigorous strife.
            The castle walls which were once fortified and stood as firm bulwarks against their enemies are now crumbling and abandoned. Grass and weeds sprout in every crack between the stones of the walls, wrinkles confessing the castle's advanced years. Within the walls, grass was so abundant that the ancient roads couldn't be discerned. A flock of 50 or so sheep with their shepherd nearby attempted to keep the growing grass at bay by wandering aimlessly in their grazing.

The incredible view overlooking the city and river
            We were able to explore wherever we wanted so I took the liberty of climbing on the walls and exploring dungeons and cisterns. My imagination ran rampant as I tried to capture what life must have been like in Rozafa 500 years ago.  Peering through the openings in the ancient masonry designed for defense, I could almost see the battles that had raged outside the castle walls. The feeling was surreal.
            Rozafa Castle is a must-see if you are in Shkodër. The view that overlooks the city and the river matched with the historical context sets this site among my favorite visited during our tour. Don't miss it!

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